Nikon Coolpix 950

Digital cameras were new and exciting in the 1990s, but resolution and image quality didn’t yet compare to film. Nikon’s Coolpix digital line finally delivered good image quality with the Coolpix 900 and 900s, but resolution was still paltry at 1.25 megapixels. Photographers eagerly anticipated the Nikon Coolpix 950, for it would bump that up to 2.11 megapixels, enough to make prints up to 16×20 inches. It was 1999, and the point-and-shoot digital camera had finally arrived.

Nikon Coolpix 950

You could buy all sorts of strange-looking digital cameras in the 1990s as form factor was not yet settled. With the Coolpix 900 and 950, Nikon was trying out a body in two segments. You twisted the lens segment forward to take pictures, and up to slip the camera into your coat pocket.

Nikon Coolpix 950

The Coolpix 950 packs a ½-inch, 2.11-megapixel CCD sensor set behind a 38-115mm (equivalent) f/2.6-4 Zoom Nikkor lens. Its shutter operates from from 1/750 second up to 8 seconds. The 950 offers programmed, aperture-priority, and shutter-priority autoexposure modes, but no manual exposure mode. It operates at ISO 80 by default, but you can also set it to ISO 100, 160, and 320. It focuses automatically by default, but you can set it to focus manually across a range of preset distances starting from four inches. You can frame your images using the viewfinder or the two-inch LCD on the back. The 950 stores images on a Compact Flash (CF) card. Four AA batteries power the 950.

Nikon Coolpix 950

A small LCD on the top of the 950 counts down the number of images left to store on the CF card. It also shows the battery charge level and the selected modes for autofocus, flash, image resolution, focus, and metering. Buttons atop the camera set the flash and focus modes, as well as turn on the self-timer.

Nikon Coolpix 950

The 950 offers four flash modes: automatic, red eye reduction, always on, and slow synchronized. That last mode is for poorly lit backgrounds, especially at night. There’s an onboard flash as well as a port to connect an external flash (but there’s no shoe to mount it). The 950 also offers landscape, normal, and macro focusing modes. Macro mode focuses from 2 centimeters! The 950 defaults to 256-segment matrix metering, but you can also choose center-weighted or spot metering.

The switch atop the camera lets you choose A-REC and M-REC picture-taking modes, as well as the image-playback mode. A-REC is the simplest way to make images with the 950: select it, and the camera chooses most settings for you. M-REC gives you more control over settings via expanded in-camera menus.

You can set the 950 to save your images at three resolutions: full (1,600×1,200 pixels), XGA (1,024×768 pixels), or VGA (640×480 pixels), all at 300 pixels per inch. You can also choose among several JPEG compression levels with decreasing image compression: Basic, Normal, and Fine. In M-REC mode you can also select Hi image quality, which saves images as uncompressed TIFFs. You make these selections by holding down the Qual button and turning the dial on the front below the shutter button.

The bottom of the LCD shows you the aperture and shutter speed, the exposure mode, and the number of images remaining on the CF card.

The Coolpix 950 weighs about 12 ounces — heavy enough for you to notice, but not so heavy as to be fatiguing to carry.

The 950 manual doesn’t say how large of a CF card the camera accepts. Some Internet photo forums said that the 950 was designed for CF cards up to either 96 or 128 megabytes, but works with CF cards of any capacity. If you insert an unformatted CF card into your 950, the LCD gives you the option to format it. You can also format your CF card on a computer, but be sure to use the FAT (a.k.a. FAT-16) file system.

I bought a 2 GB CF card to use with my 950, as well as a USB CF card reader to connect to my computer. When I tried to format my card in the camera, the 950 said the format was successful, yet the camera wouldn’t save any images to the card. One forum thread I saw claims that the 950 can’t format CF cards larger than 128 MB. I reformatted the card in my computer, and then it worked fine in the 950.

By the way: I review mostly film cameras on this site, but I have reviewed several digital cameras too. I use my Canon PowerShot S95 a lot; review here. See also my reviews of the Canon PowerShot S80 (here), the Kodak EasyShare Z730 (here), the Kodak EasyShare C613 (here), a Sony FD Mavica MDC-FD87 (here), a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-H55 (here), and the Pentax K10D DSLR (here).

I took the Coolpix 950 to the local farmers market one Saturday morning. I shot the camera using the A REC mode, at full resolution with normal compression.

Melons in the truck bed

You make an image with the 950 in the standard way: frame the shot, press the shutter button down halfway to focus and set exposure, then press it the rest of the way to make the image. The camera beeps to tell you the shutter has opened and closed. It takes several seconds for the camera to write the image to the CF card, so be patient before making the next image.

Strawberries Carrots Eggs Lettuce

The 950 focuses fast, but zooms slowly. After making and saving an image, the 950 wouldn’t let me zoom immediately. There must have been some other function the camera needed to finish performing first, but I never figured out what it was.

Apples for sale

The 950 doesn’t handle mixed lighting well. I shot this threesome under a tree’s shade with a full-sun day raging behind them and got a blown background and a little ghosting. Do I detect a little purple fringing as well?


Once again, the bright background is blown in favor of reasonable exposure in the shadows.

Working the Farmers Market

In this shot the 950 delivered considerable lens flare. The sun was off to my left.

At the Farmers Market

The LCD washes out easily in the sun. You can change the LCD’s brightness in the menus, which probably helps, but I just used the viewfinder instead. It’s small but bright. Unfortunately, it shows you noticeably less than what the lens sees.

Flowers in barrels

Here’s a photo I made in macro mode, of the ash tree in my front yard.

Ash leaves

You can take a selfie with the 950! Just twist the lens so it’s pointing at you, and frame yourself in the LCD. You’ll be upside down, but that’s easy enough to fix in any photo editor and in most photo viewers. You’ll need to zoom out to fit yourself in the frame. This image plainly shows the barrel distortion this lens delivers at its wide end. The more you zoom in, the more this distortion goes away.

Upside-down selfie

Shadow detail is often poor. When I try to enhance shadows in Photoshop I usually find there’s not enough data there to improve the image. Even in this image of my car, I couldn’t brighten up the side and front wheel at all; there just isn’t data there for it.

My vee dub

To see more from this camera, check out my Nikon Coolpix 950 gallery.

When you consider that the Nikon Coolpix 950 is from digital photography’s infancy, it’s hard to dispute that this camera performed beautifully for its time. It’s an acceptable performer even today.

1999 was a critical year in digital imaging: it was also in 1999 that Nikon released the D1 DSLR. There had been DSLRs before it, but the D1 was a landmark camera that led the way. All DSLRs since followed the D1 idiom. Really, in 1999 Nikon brought digital imaging’s infancy to a close, and began the transition away from film photography to digital photography as the primary way images are made.

If you like old film cameras, check out all of my reviews here!
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18 responses to “Nikon Coolpix 950”

  1. Katie Yang Avatar

    The late 90s, early 2000s digital cameras are completely making a comeback, at least on social media. This was a timely review!

    1. Jim Grey Avatar

      I’m not often on trend!

  2. Peter Miller Avatar
    Peter Miller

    Nikon made an adapter for these to copy slides and negatives. ES-E28 slide copy adapter, works faster and quicker than using a scanner.

    1. Jim Grey Avatar

      Oh cool. I looked it up – what a contraption! But if it works, who cares what it looks like!

  3. marcusterrypeddle Avatar

    Great review. Does M-REC allow you to change saturation, sharpness, etc.? My first digital camera was a Casio QV2000UX from the year 2000. 2.1 megapixels! I don’t remember being able to change anything except JPEG size. I kind of like that. Download and view and no fooling around with Lightroom, etc. Static electricity from a wool winter jacket killed it the next year. I went back to film until the Nikon D70 came out.

    1. Jim Grey Avatar

      There is some control over contrast, brightness, and white balance in M-REC, but that’s it. Oh, and there’s a b/w mode too.

  4. Andy Umbo Avatar
    Andy Umbo

    I’m not quite sure that 2.11 megapixels would be enough to make a 16X20 print. My first “semi-pro” digital camera, which I bought for testing in 1999, was the Olympus C2500L, a 2.5 megapixel camera, and it was pretty tough to get a decent 8X10 out of it. It did seem to render an 8X10 about as good as something that you would have gotten from 400 asa 35mm film. I had a few friends with this Nikon, and have to say the results were pretty comparble, altho the Olympus had more of a photographers physical format, and seemed “sharper”.

    BTW, loved that all those early cameras offered in camera .tiff. To this day, it seems like only the most expesnive cameras have in camera .tiff, and yet if your shooting for print reproduction, the work flow is RAW, and then processed through to .tiff for delivery to the client, unless, of course, you have in camera .tiff. It’s the only way to keep full color, since jpeg knocks everything down to 8 bit. I shot my Olympus C2500L on .tiff all the time.

    1. Jim Grey Avatar

      That 16×20 would be acceptable to a casual photographer but not to a pro.

      My first wife was a pro photographer who didn’t transition to digital until well after our divorce in 2006. She was never satisfied with digital image quality while we were married.

  5. davisr66 Avatar

    This was my first digital camera. I remember it cost $666.00 and was one of the best in its day. I had been using a Canon Elan2E (?) to take photos for our company’s website, newsletter, and RFQ/proposals. The demands were not great and I never really liked using the camera. Adapting to a strange shooting style was difficult with this camera. It was never a favorite camera but it did offer me images that I could import into Photoshop for uses as noted above. Photoshop was never one of my strong suits, but you’ve pointed out some of my processing failures may have been more a result of the images it captured rather than my ability. Once my days as a marketer were over, the 950 was put on the shelf. Apparently the 950 was more versatile than I gave it credit for because I never used most of the features you mentioned. After buying and selling two more traditional handling DSLRs I finally settled on a Nikon D3300 that I like using, but rarely do.

    1. Jim Grey Avatar

      Yikes, $666! My wife’s D3200 cost less than that! The D3x00 series is a very good basic DSLR, by the way.

      1. Andy Umbo Avatar
        Andy Umbo

        To DavisR66 point, that Olympus C2500L was a cool one grand! And that was 1999…and most decidedly, NOT a camera you could have used professionally for all situations. The watershed moment in digital acceptance was in 2003, when Canon introduced the digital Rebel (EOS 300D in Europe). 6.3 megapixels, under a grand with SLR features and operations, including interchangeable lenses. The entire staff of the studio I was working in, in Washinton D.C., walked down to Penn Camera and all bought one!

  6. Shaun Avatar

    I had one of these a while ago that I converted to infrared.

    I opened up the camera to remove the hot filter and used an r72 filter over the lens.

    It produced pretty good results. I seem to remember having to shoot in raw and use some windows command line program to do the conversion.

  7. Marc Beebe Avatar

    Although not a great performer and often found broken, the twist-body design makes these a good addition to a digital camera collection. If you want better performance the later 4500 and S4 are 4 and 6 MP respectively but still have the CCD sensor.

    1. Andy Umbo Avatar
      Andy Umbo

      …still a lot of photographers that have been involved in digital since day one, say that the CCD senor was and is superior to the CMOS sensors today….

      1. Marc Beebe Avatar

        Personally I like the tonal quality of the CCD sensors too. But they have limits which the CMOS manage to go beyond – at a cost of those subtle, film-like colours.

    2. Jim Grey Avatar

      I still love the color I get out of my old Kodak digital with its CCD. My CMOS Canon S95 can’t touch it, even with Vivid Color on. My Nikon Df, however, does a lovely job with its CMOS sensor. I think of my Kodak digital as being like Kodak Gold 200, and my Nikon Df being like Kodak Portra 160.

  8. Sam Avatar

    Thanks for the walk down memory lane Jim! I have this one. Haven’t used it in ages. Vintage digital cameras are in for some reason. For most, I believe it’s what I’d call “cheap thrills.” Cheap, cool, different from the incredible cameras we have today. For me, I’ve been using film and digital since the early days but when I buy a vintage digital camera these days it’s usually because it brings me back to those exciting days of early digital when it was all new to us. Thanks for this post, I will take my 950 out because of you!

    1. Jim Grey Avatar

      It’s amusing to me to find that these old digitals are popular again as nostalgia items! At least this 950 does good work.

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